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Hair Biology: African American hair is different but definitely not inferior!

Hair types are different for each individual and your genes possibly play a part in determining the actual structure of the hair’s development. The hair shape, size, texture and growth rate is what make your hair distinctive. Each strand of hair on your head consists of a life cycle that comprises of growth, stabilization, aging and shedding. Our hair sheds on average 15-100 hairs per day. All hair types grow regardless of ethnicity at an average rate of ½ inch each month.

Hair grows out of small pockets in the scalp called follicles. Hair follicles determine the physical makeup of our hair. The shape and size of the hair follicle influence the texture of the hair fiber. Hair thickness is derived from the amount of hair follicles on the scalp. The size of hair follicles is essential for determining the thickness of hair as well. The scalp averages over 100,000 hair follicles.

Hair follicles are different in shape and size, which range textures from bone straight to Jheri Curl curly. Circular shaped hair follicles produce straight hair and oval shaped follicles produce curly hair patterns. People of African descent tend to have very tightly coiled hair; this is derived from follicles that are flattened and oval shaped.

Picture taken from: http://http://www.bredas.ie/2.html

Contrary to what you may think, African Americans hair produces a lot of protective oils. More than whites and Asians! So why does your hair dry out so easily? Well, the tightly spiraled pattern of your hair doesn’t allow the oils to reach to the ends. Protective oils need to bypass each spiral in your kinky hair to reach the ends of the hair strand. It’s like jumping hurdles! Because of the tight curls, the oil fails to extend evenly along the hair fiber. The dryness from the lack of oil extending throughout the hair strand causes our hair to be easily prone to breakage thus, prohibiting growth retention. Tightly coiled hair is more inclined to stay short.

Retaining your hair growth:

There’s mistaken belief that has affected African Americans concerning hair care and that is the use of grease. Hair grease is commonly used to moisturize dry hair and scalp but most contain petroleum and mineral oil. Please avoid products with petroleum and mineral oil because they clog your pores and locks moisture out. You can find great moisturizers in your kitchen! Natural oils are best for African American hair. Oils such as coconut oil, olive oil and jojoba oil are examples of natural oils that closely related to the oil that the scalp produces. So throw away your hair grease and replace it with natural oils! It worked for me and I know it will work for you too!